Each summer we always spent several weeks on the Greek island of Corfu (where we first met in the late 70's). Over the years several villages have been tried, often for many enjoyable return trips, before the "English" disease takes over - viz. the "English" pubs / restaurants open and the local Greek atmosphere disappears. The last few years we have been to Ágios Geórgios (St George's South), where small taverna's still serve excellent Greek food and there are two long sandy beaches for the lazy days. Agios Georgios is a small village in the south of island, some fifty minutes taxi ride from the airport. 

In 2007, we decided to investigate the possibility of buying a plot of land or a house to serve as a holiday home for our frequent visits. Towards the end of that year we completed the purchase of a plot with a "shell" - the basics of a house but no doors / windows, etc., which had been started some 10+ years earlier and then abandoned.  During the following nine months this was turned in to a house with all the normal mod-cons, etc.    Subsequently, and after some series deliberation about jobs and the current state of things in the UK, we decided in mid 2008 to give up my job, sell our house in Oxfordshire and move to Ágios Geórgios.  This final stage was completed in May 2009. Our days now are spent either on the beach or gardening - the weeds do not know the meaning of "off season" and there is plenty of watering to do each evening as well as grass that needs cutting every 4-5 days.

There are many good guide books and web pages listing the sites and delights of Corfu - therefore we will only highlight a couple of favourites in this section.

Arrival

Arrival is normally by plane at the islands airport to the south of Corfu Town. The runway is 300m long, with water at one end, water on the left, water on the right and a main road at the other end - not as exciting as the old Hong Kong airport, but still bad enough for some people!. 

One of the general problems with the airport though is that it relies on a visual approach - if the pilot cannot see the runway he will not land the plane (viz. there is no automated approach mechanism available).  This can lead to diversions, and often an overnight stay if the flight is later in the day or the crew are running out of hours, before an attempt is made to land the next day.

Leaving the island is slightly better, with traffic lights normally stopping traffic when planes are taking off!.

Driving

Driving in Corfu is not for the faint hearted. Although much improved over the last few years, the quality of road surface and the quality of driving throw up many surprises!. During our holidays on the island and also after our subsequent move here, we would say / warn:

• Greek drivers do not like to be in a queue of traffic - they will come up very close behind you and eventually overtake you.  Do not attempt to outrun them as they will just keep up with you - just try to pull over a bit so that they can pass. (On one occasion on the Lefkimi bypass we were overtaken by a car that was itself being overtaken by another!)

• Greek drivers can and will overtake on blind bends

• Greek drivers do cut corners, even when there is oncoming traffic

• Although illegal, the mobile phone is regularly in use while driving, as are smoking, changing gear and gesticulating to some passing driver - we have seen drivers steering with their knees to accomplish these tasks.  We have also noticed recently that some drivers put on their hazard lights while driving (more slowly) while using the phone!

• White lines in the middle of the roads do exist but they are mainly bleached out by the sun - this can make it difficult to judge some bends. "Cats Eyes" do exist in some places, but they have mostly been lost (because they are stuck to the road with hot tar, and this never sets, so the first car to go over the cats eye displaces it)

• Double parking is often undertaken, with no concern for the effect this has on other drivers. 

• Switching on the cars hazard lights while driving normally indicates that the driver is going to stop in the road (e.g. outside a shop)

• Most drivers (bikes and cars) do not use indicators prior to turning - you are expected to guess what are going to do!

• Many bikers and pedestrians do not look where they are going, with the latter frequently just stepping out in to the road to reach a shop on the other side without looking, so you need your wits about you when driving (a Greek friend who now lives in England and recently returned to the island for a holiday said you need 20 pairs of eyes when driving!)

• Children are often carried on motor bikes / mopeds - one in front of the driver and one sitting behind.  It is also common to see (older) women riding side saddle as passengers on the bikes

• In rural areas particularly, you will often see donkeys being ridden on the road, and goats being herded along.

• Although wearing a crash helmet on motor bikes is mandatory, many Greek riders hang the helmet around their wrist when riding - this is not to be recommended!

• There are an increasing number of traffic lights on the island, but they differ in a couple of key areas when compared with the UK - there are no lights on the far side of the junction so you must stop well short if you are to see the lights changing, and, when the lights do change from red, they go straight to green (viz. no amber) - if you don't move away instantly (or before!), a cacophony of horns will sound behind you!.  It should also be noted that some Greeks ignore the traffic lights altogether!.

• Greek drivers will do the unexpected - just because you are driving on the main road does not mean that the car coming out of the driveway of a house or from a minor road will not pull straight out in front of you. Similarly, they may suddenly stop just because they have seen Spiros / Costas outside a shop and want to have a chat - the fact that you are driving immediately behind them is irrelevant!

With the cost of crude oil constantly rising, and the application of additional taxes by the Government, the price of petrol has been rocketing with EUR 1.83 per litre a common (but by no means maximum) price on the island. But at the beginning of May the Greek government applied a petrol price cap - for Corfu this was EUR 1.7650 per litre.  How long this cap will remain in place waits to be seen.

Driving is often the only way to reach some of the countryside and the isolated beaches - you just have to be very careful. 

Buses

These fall into two main categories - local (Blue) and "long" distance (Green). The former used to have a few (wooden) seats and limited (or no) air conditioning but these have largely been replaced by new buses which are far more comfortable, including the notorious "bendy" bus. Both types of service though are often very crowded - the bus from Ágios Geórgios to Corfu Town (there are two a day) is often "standing room only" before it leaves the resort.

They are though, very reasonably priced. By way of comparison, the bus from Ágios Geórgios to Corfu Town costs EUR 2.90, while a taxi will be in the region of EUR 60 (2010).   It is important to check the bus times as they do change.

Corfu Town

Corfu Town has been the subject of occupation by a number of different nationalities, including the British in 1815. Evidence of the latter is found in the main Esplanade where a cricket "square" can be found and the sound of leather on willow is often heard (too energetic for my liking!) - Wednesdays and weekends being the most popular times for matches.  At the end of April 2011 there was even an Aussie Rules match played. There is also a British Cemetery near the town centre - this apparently has a fantastic display of orchids..

Alongside the Esplanade lies the old Fort on one side, and on the other, the famous Listón which fronts the Esplanade on the old town side. This graceful arcaded façade was inspired by the Rue de Rivoli in Paris (the French were also past occupiers of Corfu). As well as cafes (which are more expensive than those in the side streets), this can provide welcome shade from the searing heat.

A fascinating maze of narrow streets, arched alleys and steep stairways lies between the Esplanade and the Old Port. These are a relic of Venetian rule, when they became homesick and built replicas of "home" (but without the canals and gondolas!).

Driving in Corfu Town is not to be recommended.  Streets are often narrow with much parking on the road side - there are only a few car parks and these are often full by 09:30.   In June 2010, the local authorities started installing a series of cycle lanes in the town centre - this reduced car parking spaces quite dramatically, as well as making the already narrow roads even narrower. Having said that, the bollards marking the edge of the cycle lanes had been largely broken off by early 2011, and car parking along the roadside restarted!.  In addition to the central car park, three are also some new car parks down near the port (easy walking distance into town) - as with the town centre parks, these mostly cost EUR 3 for all day.

From the road alongside the main harbour is a view of the mountains of Albania - little more than two kilometres away. 

More images of Corfu can be found here

Last revised: 19 January 2012